2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Versteigerung Willi Schaefer, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (0,75l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Versteigerung, Willi Schaefer

“The idea here,” says Christoph Schaefer of his auction-bound 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese A.P. #9 “is to capture the old notion of feinste Spatlese,” where opulence or botrytis are not sought. A seductively heady nose of wisteria, rowan, and honeysuckle backed by quince and apple jellies follows in inner-mouth profusion and with an alliance of textural creaminess with utmost levity and luscious confitured fruit and nearly overripe melons. Wet stone and lightly toasted nuts also figure from nose to tail here, and set up a welcome sense of counterpoint. But while the acidity is higher than in the corresponding A.P. #5 and #10 bottlings, that doesn’t, for now at least, translate into enhanced vivacity or primary juiciness. Deep nuttiness and stoniness reverberate here after the confitured elements have slowly died away. This is going to merit 20-30 years of attention and its evolution over the coming decade in comparison with its immediate siblings should be especially fascinating to follow. - David Schildknecht, Apr. 2013