2018 Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Versteigerung Klaus Peter Keller, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (0,75l)

Mosel Fine Wines - 2018 Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Versteigerung, Klaus Peter Keller

The 2018er Schubertslay Kabinett Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested at 83° Oechsle on 120 year-old un-grafted vines and was fermented down to the lower end for fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (38 g/l). After an initial phase of smoky and reductive elements, this wine opens up to offer a multi -layered and impressively captivating nose of fresh minty herbs, grapefruit, lime, orange blossom and spices. Some delicate white fruits are wrapped into pure, zesty and animating flavors on the palate. The wine leaves one with a thrilling sense of airy finesse in the off-dry tasting finish. Far from being big, this stunning Kabinett remains true to its Prädikat. It is easily one of the finest young Kabinett we have ever tasted. And the upside is huge, as the wine fleshes out and develops more multi-layered depth. 2028-2048

Vinous - 2018 Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Versteigerung, Klaus Peter Keller

Lemon, grapefruit, nectarine and cassis are coolingly and stimulatingly laced with mint and oregano on a soaring nose and a polished, brightly juicy, remarkably delicate palate. Apropos of delicacy, at 9% alcohol, here is one of those 2018s that brilliantly demonstrates the advantages of letting more alcohol accumulate than is generally associated nowadays with Kabinett, thus holding sweetness in check while paying no price in terms of perceived levity. Brightness of citrus, piquancy of huckleberry, green herbal pungency and a prickle of nettle combine for electrical, tongue-tingling invigoration as well as consummate refreshment on a buoyantly wafting, superbly sustained finish. This wine caused quite a stir because after the Mosel VDP (a.k.a. Grosser Ring) rejected Keller’s proposal to have it offered at their September auction in Trier, his VDP colleagues from Rheinhessen and the Nahe allowed it to be auctioned at their annual event, where, at €550 per bottle, it achieved the highest hammer price. - David Schidknecht, Nov. 2020