2018 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Joh. Jos. Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Vinous: In contrast with this year’s “regular” Himmelreich Auslese, this gold capsule interpretation evokes the citricity that I associate with the site. Headily scented, glossy and lusciously rich, it is at the same time cooling and refreshing, evoking a lime and grapefruit sorbet infused with Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences. At the same time, quince paste, marzipan and overripe honeydew melon, reinforced by prominent sweetness, weigh in on the confitured, confectionary and decadent side. The impressively persistent finish is soothingly sustained and pure, if not quite so multifaceted for now as that of the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. - David Schildknecht, Aug. 2020