2018 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Q.b.A. trocken Edition G.C. Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Pfalz

Vinous - 2018 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Q.b.A. trocken Edition G.C., Dr. Bürklin-Wolf

Boxwood, privet, sage, mint, peach kernel and smoky black tea pungently and piquantly assault the nose. But that’s not all. There is a charred red meat note here that would be more at home in the Côte d’Or or Northern Rhône – utterly intriguing and by no means off-putting. It serves notice of the mouthwateringly savory palate performance, whose feel is firm but polished. There is a resonance to the long finish that suggests tectonic rumbling, accompanied by saliva-inducing salinity and herbal-meaty complexity comparable to that experienced on the nose. It’s not often I taste an Ungeheuer that gives chase to the corresponding Kirchenstück, but here is such an occasion. Bottling was due at the end of 2019 or early in 2020. - David Schildknecht, März 2021