2017 Westhofen MORSTEIN Riesling Grosses Gewächs Q.b.A. trocken Klaus Peter Keller, Rheinhessen

Mosel Fine Wines: The 2017er Westhofener Morstein Riesling Trocken GG develops a stunning and hugely complex nose of wet stone, pear, passion fruit, whipped cream, and herbs. It proves gorgeously balanced on the zesty, precise yet also delicately smooth palate and leaves a multi-layered feel of fruits and herbs in the long finish. This shows quite some extract, concentration and depth but remains ethereally light-footed. The combination of creamy opulence, zesty structure and aromatic precision is simply staggering. 2027-2043. - Jun. 2019

Vinous: Chalk dust, Latakia tobacco, lime peel, bruised apple skin, pennyroyal and boxwood combine for a penetrating nose whose sheer intensity – not to mention some of its specifics – I can’t recall from any previous Keller Morstein. The feel is firm, and the palate veritably seethes with mineral matter while exhibiting brightly and tartly juicy fruit intensity that suggests an admixture of white currant and crabapple core. The finish grips implacably, tugging at cheeks and salivary glands alike, while delivering mouth-shaking energy and a striking impression of chalk and stone suffusion. And for all that this wine approaches hyper-concentration, it nonetheless exhibits an exhilarating sense of animation and lift while compelling the next sip. “That’s exactly how it should be,” remarked Keller. - David Schildknecht, Jul. 2019