2014 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: From the oldest vines, the 2014 Riesling G-Max has a very subtle, fresh and precise aroma that is clearly affected from limestone terroir; it shows some herbal flavors such as thyme. Clear, piquant and juicy on the palate, this is a power station in terms of energy. This medium to full-bodied dry Riesling is full of drive and freshness, and shows a great purity and endless salinity with bright, juicy fruit aromas. The G-Max is a bit richer and more powerful on the palate than the Abtserde, but also needs more years to develop the purity and finesse of the former.

Mosel Fine Wines: The 2014er G-Max proves superbly complex and pure on the nose with some superb notes of mint, white flowers, white peach, grapefruit and a touch of coconut. The wine is however still pretty much restrained on the palate, as it comes over as intense and compact. The energy of the wine comes through in the very long, great and zesty finish driven by lime and grapefruit. Quite some herbaceous tartness in the after-taste makes one salivate and magically go for more. This tartness is still in need for integration, but the sheer intensity and complexity of his wine already preludes a great G-Max to come, in a big decade or so. 2029-2049

Vinous: This leads with surprisingly but by no means unpleasantly herbal and weedy aromatic intensity allied to peat-like smokiness, chalk dust and penetratingly high-toned suggestions of cassis and sloe berry distillate. “I am not for the faint of heart!” it seems to be warning. “It smells like the soil of the site,” insists Keller. The expansive, subtly silky palate is lush but bright, with the herbal pungency and dark berry piquancy that were signaled in the nose embedded in a diverse matrix of white peach, lime and turnip. The finish here nearly explodes with mouth-shaking energy, conveying wild herbal intensity, chalky impingements and a smoldering, peaty underlying earthiness, without losing focus or neglecting its obligation to refresh as well as enliven.