2014 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken Klaus Peter Keller, Rheinhessen (0,75l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2014 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken, Klaus Peter Keller

Served blind as the 14th wine of the vertical and right after the 2013 vintage, Keller's 2014 Riesling G-Max opens with a clean, fine and rather classic nose with ripe, cooked and concentrated fruit aromas with phenolic spice. Slightly untamed and animal on the palate, this is a taut, fresh, persistently salty, straightforward and enormously mineral as well as elegant G-Max with great and complex length. This is more than just a remarkable Riesling for this difficult vintage when, after a warm summer, rainfalls caused a stop-and-go harvest in many German wine regions. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024. - Stephan Reinhardt, März 2024

Mosel Fine Wines - 2014 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken, Klaus Peter Keller

The 2014er G-Max proves superbly complex and pure on the nose with some superb notes of mint, white flowers, white peach, grapefruit and a touch of coconut. The wine is however still pretty much restrained on the palate, as it comes over as intense and compact. The energy of the wine comes through in the very long, great and zesty finish driven by lime and grapefruit. Quite some herbaceous tartness in the after-taste makes one salivate and magically go for more. This tartness is still in need for integration, but the sheer intensity and complexity of his wine already preludes a great G-Max to come, in a big decade or so. 2029-2049

Vinous - 2014 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken, Klaus Peter Keller

This leads with surprisingly but by no means unpleasantly herbal and weedy aromatic intensity allied to peat-like smokiness, chalk dust and penetratingly high-toned suggestions of cassis and sloe berry distillate. “I am not for the faint of heart!” it seems to be warning. “It smells like the soil of the site,” insists Keller. The expansive, subtly silky palate is lush but bright, with the herbal pungency and dark berry piquancy that were signaled in the nose embedded in a diverse matrix of white peach, lime and turnip. The finish here nearly explodes with mouth-shaking energy, conveying wild herbal intensity, chalky impingements and a smoldering, peaty underlying earthiness, without losing focus or neglecting its obligation to refresh as well as enliven.