2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Geltz Zilliken, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (0,75l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese, Geltz Zilliken

The 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese A.P. #8 leads with alkaline, crushed stone, smoky mineral notes sitting atop effusive mango, Persian melon, Rainier cherry, and pink grapefruit such as one would in a more typical Zilliken line-up come midway through the Auslesen (but wait ... this is midway through a bunch of Auslesen, really). While the transparently tropical and now shimmering underlying mineral motifs persist on the palate, now brown spice-tinged, this exhibits a levity and vivacity that such signals of advanced ripeness and botrytization probably will not have led you to expect. The long finish manages to both sooth and stimulate. Hauntingly alluring suggestions of rowan, heliotrope, lily, and almond extract well-up as you work this around in the mouth, and persist in the empty glass, still subtly shrouded by smoke. This rivetingly complex and seductive Spatlese should be worth following for three decades. - David Schildknecht, Dez. 2011