2010 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese Maximin Grünhaus, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (0,375l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2010 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese, Maximin Grünhaus

Prickly pungency and brightness of lime peel and horseradish lend the 2010 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese an Eiswein-like aura. At the same time, impression of honeydew melon liqueur, Chartreuse-like herbal essence, white peach nectar, quince jelly, and white raisin on a viscous, expansive palate bespeak both the Ruwer and rare purity of botrytis. Energy conveyed by fresh citrus and a sense of insistent pungency - reinforced by a bite of fresh ginger - are ideal foils for the ennobled, rich side of this radiant Riesling, collaborating in surprising harmony for a multi-layered, vibratory finish. Given the unusual extent - among nobly sweet 2010s - to which the pieces here already fit together friction-free, I foresee a good four decades of delightful, thoughtful sipping. Unlike this year's Auslesen, incidentally, this wine - along with its T.B.A. and Eiswein siblings - was vinified in a small tank, in this instance netting 130 half bottles. - David Schildknecht, Apr. 2012