2006 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 45 Maximin Grünhaus, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (0,75l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2006 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 45, Maximin Grünhaus

The 2006 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese Fuder #45 was singled out for separate bottling as the clearest, most expressive lot of Abtsberg - although, surprisingly, it represents the last day of harvest - and that was a wise choice. Pure white peach aromatics are joined by grapefruit and sage flower of an intensity that calls to mind Scheurebe. This displays the juiciness, clarity, elegance, and mineral nuance that one expects from a great Grunhaus wine. How was all this still out there at such a late date? In any event, it also confirms Kramls contention that sufficient ripeness was the critical issue for these sites this year, and that the longer they waited, the riper and more expressive the fruit would prove ... other things being equal, which of course in a vintage this difficult they seldom were! And Kraml points out that the rigor of selection also had to increase as time went on, with this representing the apex of that process. Clear, refreshing, full of intricate citrus, white peach, nut oil, herb, and mineral interplay in the finish but without being at all loud, and possessed of levity and delicacy reminiscent of the great Middle Mosel wines of the vintage, this will serve as a benchmark for what was possible in the Ruwer in 2006. Incidentally, Kraml is convinced that this sort of quality was only possible thanks in part to spontaneous fermentation, which he permitted to proceed with certain lots this year. Expect to be able to hold this wine for 25-30 years. - David Schildknecht, Okt. 2008