1995 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Maximin Grünhaus, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Vinous: Combine one of the world’s truly great vineyards, a marvelously gifted producer, the world’s most noble grape variety, good (but admittedly not great) weather conditions, plus a ton of botrytis, and you’re pretty well assured to taste something magnificent. The 16 hectare Abtsberg vineyard is the best section of the Maximin Grünhäuser site (the estate, a former monastery, sits at the foot of the south-facing slope), the wine of which was once reserved for the abbots. The 1995 TBA is a tour de force: a wet and cold August and September gave way to what was up until then the warmest October since 1985, and thus the Oechsle degrees went through the roof. Dark amber-brown, with super-concentrated aromas and flavors of caramelized sugar, peach nectar, smoky botrytis, and aromatic herbs plus a hint of volatile acidity that are penetrating and deep. The finish goes on and on; the harmonious acidity keeps this super-sweet beauty dancing on your palate. 98/Drinking Window: 2015-2050. - Ian D'Agata