2018 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Egon Müller, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Vinous: The substantial share of healthy fruit that was picked for this manifests itself in brightly fresh white peach and pear, alongside a syrupy element and jellied quince that point toward the nobly rotten portion of the harvest. Rather than a whiff of mushroom, as had been the case with the two “regular” Auslesen of this collection, here there are musky, intriguingly animal manifestations of botrytis. The feel is glossy, subtly creamy, the finish rapier in its penetration and focus, yet setting one’s whole mouth quivering with the vibrant energy by now familiar from other Müller 2018s. I can’t see any reason why lucky owners should insist on deferring the pleasure of this wine’s acquaintance, but I am also quite confident that the wine itself, not just that pleasure, will be long-lived. (A second gold capsule Auslese, the A.P. #11, was auctioned.) - David Schildknecht, Juli 2020