2014 Saar Riesling Q.b.A. Van Volxem, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Vinous - 2014 Saar Riesling Q.b.A., Van Volxem

The van Volxem cuvée that prominently sports the name “Saar” on its label represents not this estate’s entry-level bottling, but rather the next step up, which on occasions (such as, improbably, in vintage 2011) can be as impressively expressive as many an outstanding single-vineyard Saar Riesling. Zesty citrus rind piquancy and bruised apple skin pungency mark both the nose and the glossy, substantial (though at 12% alcoholically modest) palate of this 2014. There is a certain severity to the gripping finish on display here, though I suspect and hope that the wine will relax with another year or two in bottle. - David Schildknecht, Jul. 2016