2011 Saarburg RAUSCH Riesling Grosses Gewächs Q.b.A. trocken Geltz Zilliken, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2011 Saarburg RAUSCH Riesling Grosses Gewächs Q.b.A. trocken, Geltz Zilliken

While I was critical of their inaugural 2009 effort in this genre - which disappointed in particular when tasted alongside the corresponding halbtrocken -Diabas- bottling - the Zillikens- 2011 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Grosses Gewachs (along with its 2010 counterpart) demonstrates that they are fast learners when it comes to perfecting the VDP-s prestige dry wine genre. I-m especially struck by the fact that this 2011 Grosses Gewachs displays even greater intrigue and clarity - and no less interactive complexity or energy - than its Diabas counterpart. Scents suggestive of moss and underbrush; alkaline and saline ocean breeze; as well as more predictable lemon rind, kirsch, smoke, and crushed stone anticipate an equally fascinating and complex palate. Toasty nut oils and squash seeds along with a glowing expression of cyanic piquancy add to the impressive intensity of a long, mouthwatering finish. Revisited early this year, it performed even more impressively than it had soon after bottling, and I anticipate that it will reward attention through at least 2025. Given a 5,300 liter production, this isn-t a rarity per se, but it-s rare to encounter a Grosses Gewachs that projects a similar sense of buoyancy and infectious primary juiciness. - David Schildknecht, Okt. 2013