Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: Zillikens’ 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Diabas – like last year’s corresponding cuvee – is the halbtrocken counterpart to their Grosses Gewachs, picked from very similar though in this instance marginally riper fruit, and even though finished (at 16 grams) with twice the residual sugar, still to all (save for Germans’) intents and purposes a dry wine. Persian melon, ripe cherry, and a greenhouse-like amalgam of flowers and leaves are pungently accented with struck-flint smokiness on the nose as well as a luscious, subtly creamy and for this vintage inexplicably caressing palate. Peach and winter squash – familiar from this year’s generic dry bottling – emerge as this takes on air. The brightness, clarity, saliva-inducing salinity and (yes, gasp!) harmony of the Grosses Gewachs holds the edge at least for now. But this Diabas is no diabase boulder; it’s a seductively and (given its vintage) improbably enticing pillow of a Riesling whose finish is guaranteed to beat counting sheep. I can’t wait to follow its evolution in tandem with that of its dry Doppelganger. There is a widespread belief among German growers (on the paradox of which, in light of Germans’ trocken-fixation, I’ve often commented) that an off-dry Riesling will – other things being equal – outlive a legally dry one. But my intuition and experience tend to favor betting on whichever wines I perceive best-balanced and most complexly expressive from the beginning. Certainly though, this year both the Rausch Grosses Gewachs and this Diabas will prove wonderful partners for a wide range of cuisine. - David Schildknecht, Dez. 2011
92 / 100
Karamell, Brioche, mit sehr feiner Säure, mineralische Eindrücke am Gaumen, legt mit Luft im Glas ordentlich zu.
Weingut Geltz Zilliken
VDP. Grosse Lage
Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken, Heckingstraße 20, 54439 Saarburg, Deutschland