2010 Kanzem Hörecker Riesling Beerenauslese Versteigerung von Hövel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (1,5l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2010 Kanzem Hörecker Riesling Beerenauslese Versteigerung, von Hövel

By time von Kunow got around to picking his small, elite Einzellage within the Kanzemer Berg, a 2010 Kanzemer Hohecker Riesling Beerenauslese represented the entire crop! What’s more, calling this “B.A.” when it reached 190 Oechsle is almost misleading! Musk, smoky black tea, radish, honeysuckle, and high-toned distilled pit fruits in the nose not only point to botrytis, but also anticipate the wine’s 18 grams of acidity in their strong suggestions of Eiswein. Marzipan, pistachio extract, pear nectar, quince jelly, and honey flood the palate, where the electric sense of acidity is remarkably positively integrated and a sense of near-weightlessness defies the wine’s creamy texture and sheer viscosity. The confectionary aura and high residual sugar here almost needless to say do not result in an overly sweet impression, but the acids power a stunningly vibrant if practically jarring finish. This is extreme stuff, to be sure, but exciting. I suspect it will be worth following for the better part of four decades, but I could imagine one in a quandary twenty years from now if it were to show itself as edgy, even ornery: would one merely interpret that as a phase?! - David Schildknecht, Dez. 2011

Mosel Fine Wines - 2010 Kanzem Hörecker Riesling Beerenauslese Versteigerung, von Hövel

The 2010er Kanzemer Hörecker Riesling Beerenauslese made from fruit harvested at well above 200° Oechsle was released via the 2012 VDP Mosel Auction. It catches one’s attention through its rich scents which are beautifully balanced out by refreshingly floral elements, cassis, dried white flowers, pear, minty herbs, anise, and other herbs reminiscent of the great Chartreuse. The wine is still on the sweet side on the palate, yet this sweetness is beautifully wrapped into a marvelous combination of ripeness and ripe acidity. The balance of this refined expression of BA is a feast for the senses. Now-2050. - Apr. 2020