Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: If anything, even more headily floral than its Abtserde sibling, Keller’s 2010 Riesling trocken G-Max evokes iris and peony along with intimations of ocean breeze and scents of ripe quince and peach. Here the strong mineral dimension is not only mouthwateringly saline but scallop-like in a savory, faintly sweet and iodine-tinged way that segues directly into custardy richness of white peach, quince paste and nut oils that engulf the palate and (as I see I already wrote about the 2009) you along with it. There is a serenity and soothing irresistibility to the finish that – like its almost opaque sense of density and richness – sharply distinguishes this from the transparency and kinetics of the Abtserde. What a treat it will be for those who can manage to follow this wine from bottle – hard enough to purchase in any year, let alone one where yields for this particular picking dropped to twelve hectoliters per hectare! – in parallel with its immediate siblings from bottle. I suspect there is at least a decade of profound pleasure here, but as one notices particularly in the case of G-Max, Keller has traveled such a distance stylistically and refined his game to such an extent that one ought not to take his Grosse Gewachse of 8-10 years ago as an indication of what lies in store for those of recent vintages.
Mosel Fine Wines: This needs quite some time in the glass to some primary, crisp yet very pure scents of fruits enhanced by fresh notes including lime, herbs,bergamot, grapefruit, yuzu and coco. The power and intensity of this wine are superbly wrapped into a laser-sharp acidity which tightens up the whole experience. The finish is straight, zippy and marked by a most animating tartness as well as some salty elements. This bone-dry tasting G Max is quite a treat, but also one which definitely needs more aging to fully shine. 2025-2040
Vinous: Vibrant aromas of passion fruit, lemon oil and pine nuts. The flavors of dense nectarine fruit and smoked almond supported by a bright acid structure are both serious and charming. With its depth, richness and intriguingly complex finish, this is certainly one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.
|Abfüller:||Klaus Peter Keller, Bahnhofstraße 1, 67592 Floersheim-Dalsheim, Deutschland|