2009 G-MAX Riesling Q.b.A. trocken

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: Smoky, pungent, and animal evocations of peat, sweat, and musk oil mingle with scents of peach, Rainier cherry, and grapefruit on the nose of Keller’s 2009 Riesling G-Max, then saturate the palate in an enveloping manner impressively unlike that of the other dry Rieslings in his present collection. This is so richly-fruited and plush in texture, and its abundance of flavor registers as such an extract-rich infusion, that the contrast with the sense of transparency and vibrancy projected by the corresponding Abtserde could scarcely be more dramatic. Yet even so, this G-Max comes off as anything but weighty. Peaty smokiness; musky floral essences; crushed chalk; peach kernel and cherry pit piquancy, all impinge distinctively amid an otherwise seamlessly dense ocean of flavor whose finish both engulfs and buoys you. Eleven days (!) after having been opened for my initial tasting, contents of this same bottle of G-max were still full of vibratory energy. I imagine at least a 15 year run of glory for this remarkable Riesling.

Mosel Fine Wines: The 2009er G-Max proves still slightly reductive and almost stinky at first and only gradually reveals a mind-blowingly great nose, which is both profound and absolutely amazingly fresh regarding the vintage. Smoky, very primary and floral elements enhanced by notes of minty herbs, yuzu and chalky minerals are superbly wrapped into some spontaneous fermentation residues. The wine develops great focus and energy on the palate. It is straight and almost razor sharp, and has outstanding density. The finish proves feather light and sublimely airy. This defies all the rules of a “hot” vintage, and has even upside potential as it will slowly reach its maturity window. What a stunner! 2029-2049

Vinous: Enticing aromas of ripe apricot, dried herbs and sweet lime. Supple and expansive, but with a crisp acid structure giving shape to the wine and providing the structural support for an extended evolution in bottle. Smoked almonds and a persistent saltiness linger on the finish. With its unctuous richness, outstanding depth and subtly spicy character, this is one of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.