2008 Dalsheim HUBACKER Riesling Grosses Gewächs Q.b.A. trocken Klaus Peter Keller, Rheinhessen (1,5l)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 2008 Dalsheim HUBACKER Riesling Grosses Gewächs Q.b.A. trocken, Klaus Peter Keller

The Keller 2008 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs smells exotically floral – like a walk through a tropical greenhouse – as well as of ripe peach, raw almond, and citrus. With almost dramatic purity of fruit and transparency to floral and saline, chalky, and crystalline mineral nuances, this sacrifices a bit of the richness and low tones of the Kirchspiel for the sake of delicacy. Almond cream and spirit-like inner-mouth aromatic suggestions – essence of cherry, white peach, and apricot, with subtly cyanic suggestions of their pits – add allure. This site reveals the strongest difference in character from 2007 – when its exemplification had strikingly tactile presence and grip – yet both vintages share inscrutable mineral mystery and the promise of enormous fascination as they evolve over the next decade or more. - David Schildknecht, Feb. 2010